Boa constrictor

Boa constrictor (Imperator)

One of the most common and popular snakes in the private collections of terrariumists in the world. And the fondness could not have arisen from nothing: this snake species is worth mentioning in every blog or any piece of literature, that describes the most well liked reptiles.
They have the perfect size, the ideal calm temperament, a catchy bright and contrasting skin colour. All in all, these snakes lack imperfection and can be recommended both to terrariumist beginners and to experienced reptile-keepers.

There is so much to say about this snake, that I could never really collect all of my ideas and post them before. But I think I will only mention the most important things :)

Background information

These snakes do not grow as big as Indian rock pythons, however, they do have a solid, muscular and heavy body shape with a extensive variety of colour variations with bright, changing colour tones from the head to the tip of their tails.
Normally, the pythons, held in captivity, tend not to grow larger than 2 m long (considering the fact, that in the nature the Boa constrictor's sizes vary from 1 to 6 metres). The size depends on the area, where it has originally been found, and only then transported for breeding to a different location.
The main body-colour of these Boas is usually light-beige. However, it is the patterns on the back of the snake, which make it stand out among any other reptiles. The head and the upper part of their bodies tends to be more or less monotonous, while from around the 5/7th part of their body, the patterns become more visually distinct, ending with a very bright ornament on the tail of the snake. Considering the fact, that these snakes are "big", their heads are relatively small, making their body proportions seem quiet elegant, compared to some other snakes (Boiga cyanea, Eryx miliaris and etc). The colour varies from light-grey or pastel-green to dark-brown and dark-burgundy. Also, these snakes are well known for the great amount of morphs present. I, personally, have a female 'Albino Boa constrictor - Kahl line'. Her name is Honey and she is one of my favourites of the many reptile and amphibians I have ever kept in my personal collection.

Boa constrictors inhabit a wide range of places: from North Mexico to South Argentina, including most islands of the Gulf of Mexico and some islands on the equator region of the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. And even though the place of origin of each species may vary greatly, one of the greatest aspects of keeping them at home is the ability of most Boa constrictors to adapt to the environment the are introduced to in very short time. So, all of the rules and recommendations of keeping the Boa constrictor, which I will write about below, can be applied to most specimen of this species.
They tend to occupy not only the lower areas of the plant community of the rainforest but are also locating themselves in open woodlands with rich bush and shrub vegetation, rocky mountains, the sandy ground, the top of the kapok trees (the tallest trees of the Amazon) and etc.

Though, the colour variation of this species cannot be the only reason why these snakes are so popular. The ease of keeping them in their vivariums, the methods of feeding and their character make up a great reptile for showing off to your friends and family.

Terrarium

If you decided to purchase and keep a Boa constrictor at home, the only factor you might consider problematic is the size of the tank, needed for keeping this species. As  I already mentioned, these snakes can grow up to 2 m (and sometimes 3 m long, if female). Therefore, the minimum size for one grown Boa constrictor must not be smaller than 100*50*50 (Width*Height*Depth) cm. However, that is the size for an average Boa c.. If you have seen the parents of your snake specimen, you should expect your snake to grow as big as them and therefore you should pick a terrarium, suitable for the size of your snake. It is obviously recommended to pick a bigger version of the tank if you are choosing between a bigger and a smaller version. Remember, the width of the tank should not be smaller than half the length of the snake. And the depth, therefore, at least half the measure of the width.

For a specimen that has not yet reached the length of 1 m a tank with the dimensions of 60*40*40 (W*H*D) cm will suit the snake perfectly. Later, though, you will have to switch to a new and bigger terrarium.

Even though most of the Boa c.s tend to inhabit the less humid areas of their original environment, they are still most often located near some kind of water source, which could be a slow-flowing river, a pond, lake, puddle or even an inland sea. Therefore you should place a water-basin, big enough for the whole snake to fit in it, as it would have a greater surface area, increasing the water evaporation rate, easing your job of keeping the humidity level at a certain level.

I would also be a good idea to place some branches, twigs and rocks in the tank, as most Boa c.s are arboreal animals, meaning that they live in the trees. The presence of such objects will also help the moulting of the reptile.

Light and Temperature

You should consider to create a clear temperature gradient in your snake's tank. During the day the terrarium should have a 'cold corner' with the temperature of 19-23 ºC and a 'Hot corner' of approximately 30-40 ºC. The average daytime tank temperature should not fall below 26-27 ºC.

Make sure that the temperature at night is not lower than 19-10 ºC. I would also recommend to place a heating pad, a heating cable or a heat rock in the hot corner for the times, when the temperature is too cold for the snake at night.

In order to keep the temperature stable, you should have a heating lamp in the Hot corner of the terrarium. The lamp can be both a ceramic heat emitter or an actual heating light-bulb. If you choose to provide the heat with a ceramic bulb, make sure you have an external light source above the High-temperature area for the snake's control over the day and night times (that provides a sharp difference between day and night, helping the metabolism of the snake). 

Many people have asked me if a source of ultraviolet light is needed. It is true, that The lack of Vitamin D can cause serious problems (suck as Rickets) and even a lethal outcome, but personally, I do not have a UV light. However, my snake's terrarium is located under direct sunlight (of Denmark...) and that is enough for it. During the summer I take Honey outside (during a warm summer day) to increase the rate of the melanin hormone flow in her body. If you keep your snakes in an area, where no natural sunlight is available, I would recommend to irradiate your snake with an hour of artificial UV light every month. This procedure is not that complex and is often applied to other reptiles as well: place your animal in a separate container with no light obstructions on top (glass, plastic), place the UV light 35-50 cm away from the top of the container and, preferably, leave the room (you don't want to risk your chances of getting skin cancer, do you?).

Humidity

Try to keep the humidity within the bounds of 45-60%. Spray the cold corner with lukewarm water from a sprayer every 3-4th day.

Feeding

Feeding Boa constrictors is normally no difficulty for the keeper, as the snake will gladly accept any prey of appropriate size. The food could be any rodent (mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, rabbits are most common for feeding) or some birds (chicks, button quails). 

As a general rule, teaching the snake to take frozen prey is no problem, making the feeding a LOT easier. 

Try not to feed your snake prey of too big size, as it may cause the reptile to vomit. When vomiting, internal organs, blood vessels and bones might be damaged by the food. 

Breeding

Again, I do not know a lot, but I do know the basics of how to breed Boa constrictors. Please ask me in the comments, if you want a description of this wonderful process :)

Extra information

Yes, I did say that these snakes are most often very calm and rarely attack people. However, each snake, no matter which species, can have it's own temperament. Also, juvenile Boa c.s may be aggressive.

Yes, it does hurt when they bite.

No, my Boa constrictor has not bitten me (yet).

Here is a gif of Honey's strike

Feeding Honey (7 month old)

Pogona vitticeps

Bearded Dragons

Bearded dragons are a desert lizard species originating from Southwest Australia. There is no difficulties in keeping bearded dragons, as well as several other desert lizards, at home even for a beginner.

Background:

A little about Gum, by little Bearded dragon I used to have back in Moscow. I bought Gum as a 1 month old lizard for in my local pet shop when he was approximately 6-7 cm long and this was my first reptile I ever had the opportunity to keep. I have had Gum for 4 years and after that I sold him to a professional breeder, as I had to move to a different country. At that point he was about 27-28 cm long and he became my favourite animal out of my collection. I have attended several Exotic Animal Exhibitions in different museums, educational centres, have had a couple of presentations in schools and shopping centers of Moscow. And each time I would bring my Bearded dragon, as it is a very tame and easy lizard. It was the perfect animal to bring out to the children in order for them not to be afraid of reptiles later on.

Back to the topic:

Terrarium

The terrarium itself needs to be horisontal, as Bearded dragons are not a climbing species (even though many of the Agama genus lizards are known for living are feeding in the trees). The volume of the tank is not supposed to be smaller than 400 liters, or 180cm x 50cm x 40cm (WDH). You could obviously buy a smaller tank for your baby Pogona, however the offspring grows very fast and in 3-4 months of proper feeding it would require a new living place. The most suitable material for the terrarium is glass, however, it is not as an important fact as a good ventilation system, which would keep the moisture out and keep the humidity at 35-40%.

Substrate

Even though, the Bearded dragons are from the desert areas of Australia, I would not recommend to have sand as a substrate as when eating, the lizard may consume some of the sand as well, which could cause severe problems with the digestive system. On the other side, big rocks or pieces of would would not work too, as when the lizard is stressed it tends to hide under the ground, which would not be possible with such massive and heavy substate components. Stress would have some kind of aftermath effect on the animal, which could be stopping to eat or drink and even fatal outcome. If you are not looking for a fancy way to decorate the living place of your pet (which, in reality, the Beardie does care much about), you would still not use newspapers for substrate, as the typographical paint includes such dangerous elements as lead and antimony. Normal paper however, or usual kitchen paper rolls would work fine for the lizard: this kind of substrate is easy to clean. Some keepers use the dried avena plant or maize in order to make their terrarium look nice.

Temperature

The temperature gradient plays a great role as well. The terrarium should have a warm corner, where a heating stone, heating pad or a heating cable should be placed above or under the substrate accordingly. In the warm corner a heating lamp should be placed as well. Heating sources should not be located in in the cold corner of the tank. The warmest point in the tank should be 35-42 ºC, while i the opposite corner not higher than 27 ºC in the daytime. In the nighttime the temperature should be lower than in the daytime, however it should not go under 20 ºC and in order to maintain the temperature when the heating lamp is off another heating course should be turned on at night.

Light

As the Bearded dragons are desert reptiles, they will require adequate amount of ultraviolet. Usually, UV lamps are used when keeping the lizard, either placed separately, or combined with the heating lamp. Ultraviolet electromagnetic waves trigger the formation of vitamin D3 in the ectodermal tissues, which in turn force a better absorption of Calcium from nutriments into the blood stream, which prevents the animal from a number of metabolic diseases.

Feeding

The diet includes insects (crickets, cockroaches, meal worms, zophobas morio), fruits, salads and vegetables. Vitamins and minerals also recommended to be added to the food, especially in the periods of growth of the lizard. Fresh water should always be available as well.

Some extra information from myself

If you want to take your bearded dragon out of the terrarium, do not try to approaching from the top, as in the wild these lizards are being attacked by birds 

When taking your pet-reptile outside, make sure there is plenty of sunlight, so your lizard will flatten out and will become darker on the back for a more effective way of heat absorption from the sunlight.

Do not give your Bearded dragon grapes.

Provide the lizard with some grass once in a while: it will chose itself what to eat out of it.

When placing a rock or a branch into the tank, disinfect it from diseases and dangerous bacteria from outside by placing the items in an oven at about 300 ºC for an hour.

Thank you!

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