Agalychnis callidryas

The red-eyed leaf tree frog

The red-eye leaf frog is one fo the most popular frogs in the terrariums worldwide and the most recognised one for its vibrant colours: the bright-green main body colour with light-blue wide stripes on the sides and the paper-white stomach. It is also one of those frogs, able of changing its body colour to match the environment! However, the main favoured feature for the collectors and keepers are the bright red eyes of the frogs and they earned the name through that aspect. Also, these frogs are know for their ability of really long jumps (up to 2-2.5 m!).

Background information

This frog species is not very difficult to keep at home, following the rules I discuss below. Agalychnises are nocturnal animals, meaning that you will not see them move during the daytime at all and only during the evening they will start waking up and hunt. These frogs are really interesting to observe during the evening as they change their main skin colour from the bright-green to a dark-vinous/maroon colour with tiny white spots on the back. This allows the frogs to stay less visible when attacking their prey. Red-eyed leaf tree frogs, originating from Honduras, are a great choice for both the advanced amphibian keeper and the beginner. The female frogs are usually larger (approximately 8 cm in length) than the male ones (6 cm). 

Terrarium

When keeping the tree frogs, one should consider purchasing a vertical tank as these frogs are not terrestrial and usually live in the tropical trees and other plants in Central America (obviously). If keeping juvenile species, not bigger than 2.5–3 cm long, you can have a 45*25*25 cm (minimum) (height*width*depth) terrarium. If your frogs are grown, you will need to change it to a 60*35*35 cm terrarium. 

When decorating the terrarium, remember, that your frogs will use all of the equipment you install as hiding and sleeping areas. Your Agalychnises will thank you, if you decide to plant them one of the following plants: Bromelia, Philodendron, Spathiphyllum and Epipremnum are the only ones I can name now. These plants have wide, lasting leaves, which are firm enough to hold the weight of your frogs. If you decide to plant something else, consult a zoologist, as some plants release toxic compounds onto their leaves, which will end lethally for your amphibian friends. 

If you decide to add smaller branches, the width of them should not be smaller, that the width of your frogs.

I just planted a small bromelia plant. I like it, because it matches the colours of the frogs and you can still see the frogs during the daytime, even though they are asleep.

Besides for the humid substrate, described in the next section, these amphibians should always have access to separate water source. I am talking about a small water bowl (ALWAYS REMEMBER: not smaller than the size of the frog). The water in it should be refreshed regularly and should always be fresh. Also, make sure it contains minimum Magnesium (as it causes loss of appetite and muscle weakness) and no Chlorine (Chlorine causes serious damage to their digestive system).

Try to refresh the water every 1-2 days and clean the water bowl every 4-5, as these frogs have the habit of defecate in the water. 

Humidity, Substrate & Ventilation

One of the main points, and one of the most challenging ones, in keeping these frogs is maintaining a stable humidity level. In order to keep the humidity at the needed 55 - 65% one must spray the substrate and the decorations with lukewarm water every second day and the substrate must not be dry at any point. On the other hand, you shall not allow the substrate to be soggy, otherwise you are risking the growth of bacteria and mould.

Do not allow the humidity level to cross 45% or 85%. The best way to control it is by installing a hydrometer (digital hydrometers are more accurate).

The most appropriate substrates are sphagnum moss and coconut flakes. However, if you rather prefer easy cleaning than decorations, wet kitchen towels will work, though they will need to be changed every third day.

Ventilation is a very significant aspect when keeping amphibians and the red-eyed tree frogs are no exception. Some people purchase the wrong terrariums or make an error when making the ventilation slots in the tanks, which makes it difficult to maintain the humidity and temperature at the appropriate levels. When considering to keep a frog, keep in mind that they all require good ventilation. 

Back to the red-eyes: if you are facing the problem of air stagnation or just low air circulation level in your frog’s terrarium, I would recommend you to install a small PC ventilator in the terrarium’s top ventilation slot, allowing new fresh air to flow in the tank. 

Temperature

Luckily, the temperature gradient is very easy to maintain as it is 24 – 30 ºC, so all you will need is a heating pad in one of the bottom corners of the terrarium. Though, if you decide to plant decorations and flowers, the heat will damage the plants, therefore, I would recommend to install a heating cable on the back of the of the walls of the terrarium. If you choose this option, you will also have to attach a thicker layer of glass, polished polyamide or styrofoam (you can decorate it) for the frogs to avoid burns from the glass wall they sit on. Otherwise, the average room temperature varies between 22–25, so basically, if your room if this warm, you do not need any external heating source.

Light

These frogs do not need any special light sources. What they do need is determined daytime and nighttime. This will help your frogs with their biorhythm and hunting abilities. Fluorescent lamps can serve as a good “daylight simulator”.

Feeding

Here it gets a little complicated, because these frogs (almost) never eat dead food. Also, they do not eat from the ground. Hence, their prey needs to be able to crawl on walls, plants and decorations. I would recommend to feed your red-eyed leaf frogs small crickets, when young, and roaches, when older, because roaches can literally “chew their way out” of the frog’s body, if not killed, but just swallowed. Grown frogs have quite powerful jaws, which allows them to kill the insect. The size of their food shall not exceed the size of their palm of their front legs (very specific, I know, but that it the perfect way to measure it!). Every second to third time you feed your green jumping amphibians, place and shake the insects in a small container with Calcium powder (needed for their bones and jumping) and either special multivitamins for reptiles and amphibians or just Vitamin D3.

Breeding

I do not know much about breeding and it is not much about keeping anymore, however, I have learned the basics about how to make them make babies! If you are interested, please email me or ask a question below.

Extra information

When buying your decorations, remember, that you will not be able to show off your pets to anyone (unless you pick the amphibian up), if your frog is hiding in a closed-for-view plant or ‘cave’. 

When planting the flowers, create a mixture of approximately 40% decorative flower soil and 60% coconut flakes for the substrate. Or, if to make it easier to keep and clean, plant them in a separate flowerpot.

When using tree cork and branches for decorations, make sure they have NO (!) sharp edges.

Keep in mind: the higher the temperature is, the better the ventilation should be and the lower the humidity is.

Lastly, do not make your frog try to bite you. It WILL bite you and you WILL regret it :)

Thank you

More pictures, as requested: